The uncoventional beauty.
Day 1
I jetted off to Langkawi with every intention of living it up a little, unlike the past few penny-pinching trips I've gone on. I'd seriously impaired my bank account, thinking I had paid for: a breathtaking view of the sea and an infinite horizon; powder soft sand; days of endless sunshine; ink black nights sprinkled liberally with countless stars; a "I'm so classy; bite me" resort; a loungey live band...
Needless to say, I was less than impressed with what greeted us. A beach with imported sand that leads out to seasonal jelly-fish infested waters; a kid-infested hotel pool; a horizon obscured by bridges and what-nots; ominous rain clouds above us; and a 'live' band that pre-recorded its accompanying music.
I barely had time to recultivate my pre-arrival anticipation before we had to head off for our island hopping tour.
Snapped this during a quick stop at Cenang Beach to pick up our fellow hoppers. I couldn't help but envy the man in the chair, for I was still sore about my artificial stretch of sand.
This is Pulau Dayang Bunting, otherwise known as the Isle of the Pregnant Maiden - see the silhouette of a pregnant lady lying on her back in the fourth shot? It is believed that the waters of a large lake grant barren women fertility. I don't know about that, but stripping down for a dip in the cool waters sure was refreshing after the trek up.
While dark clouds pretty much shrouded the island, sun rays shone optimistically in the distance. Magic, is the only word I have to describe the sight. It makes me wonder if the Ireland I read about so often in Nora Roberts' novels are like that. Langkawi, with its multitude of lush moutains, can probably be its Asian equivalent.
"On the road to nowhere". I really like this black and white shot of the broken jetty.
Went by to watch the eagles feed after our dip in the lake.
After which we headed for Pulau Beras Basah, the Island of Wet Rice. No rice paddies spotted here, but it was rather charming in a Robinson Crusoe kind of way. There was nothing much to do 'cept to lay on the sand, honestly.
After a trip back to the resort for a shower and to get out of our sea soaked clothes, we hopped on a cab down to the gypsy night market (they move around the island daily) at Kuah Town. We were f-a-m-i-sh-e-d. We'd entirely forgotten about lunch.
Not much different from the pasar malams we have back here.
They've got chatty waiters cum teh tarik men, ever ready to show a trick or two for the camera, though.
I wasn't too enthusiastic about the ayam goreng and the Ramly burger, but the ban jian kueh (peanut pancake) sure made my day. Nobody prepares them the way the Malaysians do.
Swung by our resort's beach bar after dinner, hoping to cap our first day on the island with some loungey live music. The band turned out to be a Filipino duo who fancied 80's and bubblegum pop, and the bar was empty lest for a table of enthusiastic dancing Caucasians. We soon made friends with Tonggo, the friendly waiter who then dedicated a song to us. Can't remember the title though!
We befriended the band, D'Cresendos, as well. That's Tonggo, Ceci, Flora, myself, and Russell. We got up and sang with them for a bit. Pretty much butchered the songs, but it was all good fun.
I thought we handled our disappointment pretty well, and made the best out of it. It turned out to be quite a good night after all!
29 April 2007
00:41 hrs
Langkawi Lagoon Resort room
"So, Langkawi didn't turn out like I had imagined. I wasn't expecting clear blue waters, but I was expecting a 5-star resort and a view out to the infinite horizon. The actual Langkawi did rain on my parade a little, but once again, the locals here made it all okay.
I didn't get my 5-star pampering, but I got to instead banter with locals at the night market and jam with the D'Cresendos at beach bar. It would have been so easy to hang onto my reservations and refuse the invitation onstage, but the thought of it being a once in a lifetime chance had me tossing my inhibitions to the wind. Afterall, what's a holiday without a couple of cringe-worthy memories?
While a tiny stubborn piece of me still wishes we were shacked up at a Banyan Tree-like resort that oozes posh, I am glad we ended up where we did.
A posh resort may be all pretty with impeccable service, and its live band will probably be a classy act miles away from stuck-in-the-80s D'Cresendos, but I don't think I'll ever get a high like I just did butchering songs on stage.
Pleasant memories versus travel tales to tell my grandchildren. I'll take the latter any day."
Day 2
Our morning plan to hit the pool and laze by the beach was shelled the moment the initial sunny skies gave way to rain. While the weather quite literally rained on our parade, it was quite nice, in an un-beachy way, to watch the rain fall from inside the restaurant where we enjoyed a lazy breakfast. Thank goodness we had already set aside the day for shopping in town and not for a trip out at sea.
The rest of the day was typically female - spent a good 5.5 hours at a two-storey shopping mall, whose shops can barely rival Far East Plaza. We walked into Factory Outlet Store and emerged a good 1.5 hours almost a 100 Singapore bucks poorer, but 10 tees richer.
Nursed our aching limbs at Arts Cafe at Langkawi Fair, a cafe not unlike the one inside Eclectic Attic at Plaza Singapure. This light lemon cheesecake was quite a gem. It was late evening by the time we got back to the resort, and we were seriously too pooped to go anywhere else. What better way to recuperate than to plop our exhausted bodies onto beach chairs with a novel each to watch the sun set?
00:41 hrs
Langkawi Lagoon Resort room
"So, Langkawi didn't turn out like I had imagined. I wasn't expecting clear blue waters, but I was expecting a 5-star resort and a view out to the infinite horizon. The actual Langkawi did rain on my parade a little, but once again, the locals here made it all okay.
I didn't get my 5-star pampering, but I got to instead banter with locals at the night market and jam with the D'Cresendos at beach bar. It would have been so easy to hang onto my reservations and refuse the invitation onstage, but the thought of it being a once in a lifetime chance had me tossing my inhibitions to the wind. Afterall, what's a holiday without a couple of cringe-worthy memories?
While a tiny stubborn piece of me still wishes we were shacked up at a Banyan Tree-like resort that oozes posh, I am glad we ended up where we did.
A posh resort may be all pretty with impeccable service, and its live band will probably be a classy act miles away from stuck-in-the-80s D'Cresendos, but I don't think I'll ever get a high like I just did butchering songs on stage.
Pleasant memories versus travel tales to tell my grandchildren. I'll take the latter any day."
Day 2
Our morning plan to hit the pool and laze by the beach was shelled the moment the initial sunny skies gave way to rain. While the weather quite literally rained on our parade, it was quite nice, in an un-beachy way, to watch the rain fall from inside the restaurant where we enjoyed a lazy breakfast. Thank goodness we had already set aside the day for shopping in town and not for a trip out at sea.
The rest of the day was typically female - spent a good 5.5 hours at a two-storey shopping mall, whose shops can barely rival Far East Plaza. We walked into Factory Outlet Store and emerged a good 1.5 hours almost a 100 Singapore bucks poorer, but 10 tees richer.
Nursed our aching limbs at Arts Cafe at Langkawi Fair, a cafe not unlike the one inside Eclectic Attic at Plaza Singapure. This light lemon cheesecake was quite a gem. It was late evening by the time we got back to the resort, and we were seriously too pooped to go anywhere else. What better way to recuperate than to plop our exhausted bodies onto beach chairs with a novel each to watch the sun set?
Day 3
Awoke at 6:00 a.m. the next morning to prepare for our snorkelling trip out at sea. The sky was dark when I awoke, and we finally managed to see the stars which weren't visible in the night! How odd.
(l-r) The Sea Village rooms we couldn't afford, an old-school travel agency that reminded me of the shophouses that house surname clans back here, the jetty at Pulau Payar Marine Park, Ceci and I resting from snorkelling part one.
I wasn't that keen on snorkelling initially - my virgin experience in Bintan's murky waters didn't leave too good an impression. However, my travel buddy has a thing for fishes, and I'd be mad to not want a day out at sea.
Swimming with baby sharks; holding a wriggling, water-squirting sea cucumber in my hands (most disgusting thing ever - feels like an obscenely overweight worm); feeling wary then increasingly fascinated by the sea urchins; cupping Nemo in my palms; swimming past boundaries with Adi in search of barracudas and sea turtles; feeling fishes nibble at me; and that inexplicable freedom of being in the waters.
I am so glad we went, for this trip changed my mind entirely about snorkelling. The thought of being in the sea, vulnerable to its marine life, has honestly always scared me a little. I had never quite understood the allure of the ocean divers talk about, but now I finally do. I can't wait for my next snorkelling trip.
How often do you manage to capture happiness on film? Most happy moments either go by uncaptured, or are captured as posed shots on happy occasions (think people gathering around the birthday boy/girl for a snap).
Ceci went ashore earlier as she was feeling slightly ill from the bobbing (the waters were pretty choppy), and snapped this pic of Adi and I coming up from the sea (3rd picture from left). I think we were walking pretty quickly, but despite the shot being off-centre, I can feel my happiness and exhilaration each time I look at the picture. I was on such a high!
Sat on the open deck on the ferry trip back. Met with a storm along the way, and while rain and unrelentless wind left our sea-drenched bodies freezing, the smoky mountains provided the perfect accompaniment for my marine-reminiscing.
Snapped a few shots of the sunset whilst waiting for Adi at the lobby. I'd always thought that the most beautiful sunsets were fiery with rosy golden hues. The one we saw this evening was in varying shades of gold-tinged blue, and we couldn't even see the sun, but it took my breath away unlike any other sunset.
The beauty did not lay in the setting sun, but instead the ever-changing clouds, which seemed to radiate an entrancing light from the unseeable sun.
Never thought I'd see the beauty in unicolor.
We took Adi up on his offer to take us out for seafood, but 30 minutes before we were to meet him, the post-snorkelling high wore off and logic led to me suggesting that we get the number for the police. It wasn't necessary though, for Adi, and his friend (also named Adi) turned out to be perfect gentlemen.
Would have loved to go to the Reggae Bar at Pantai Cenang the locals were raving about, but we'd a date with Tonggo and D'Cresendos at Laguna Bistro.
Laguna Bistro - the bar where our happy memories originated.
A final shot with Russell and Flora. It turned out to be D'Cresendos' last night at the bar as well, for their contract had expired, and the duo were to head down to Penang. Emails were exchanged along with handshakes and friendly pats on the back; Ceci and I may just pay Flora a visit on Boracay next year!
Three whole days flew by in a blur of activities, and the time soon came for us to bid the island I'd fallen in love with goodbye.
Langkawi is like the unlikely lover who I unknowingly gave a piece of my heart too. Like the dishevelled man at the corner you walk by everyday, barely noticing his presence, until the day you realise that he is no longer there. And that routine morning walk starts to feel a little empty, and it hits you that you had noticed and even possibly taken comfort in his presence afterall.
Langkawi, with its stuck-in-the-80s vibe; messy landscapes of cows, rusty van frames and flooded paddy fields; mystical mountains in the background, and ever-friendly island locals.
Langkawi, who took my breath away with its unfiery sunset, and who introduced me to the wonders of the marine world.
Langkawi, where I met the most amazing people, like Tonggo, Flora, Russell, Adi, and Adi.
Langkawi, where I visited 15 years ago, and I will before another 15 years go by.
Awoke at 6:00 a.m. the next morning to prepare for our snorkelling trip out at sea. The sky was dark when I awoke, and we finally managed to see the stars which weren't visible in the night! How odd.
(l-r) The Sea Village rooms we couldn't afford, an old-school travel agency that reminded me of the shophouses that house surname clans back here, the jetty at Pulau Payar Marine Park, Ceci and I resting from snorkelling part one.
I wasn't that keen on snorkelling initially - my virgin experience in Bintan's murky waters didn't leave too good an impression. However, my travel buddy has a thing for fishes, and I'd be mad to not want a day out at sea.
Swimming with baby sharks; holding a wriggling, water-squirting sea cucumber in my hands (most disgusting thing ever - feels like an obscenely overweight worm); feeling wary then increasingly fascinated by the sea urchins; cupping Nemo in my palms; swimming past boundaries with Adi in search of barracudas and sea turtles; feeling fishes nibble at me; and that inexplicable freedom of being in the waters.
I am so glad we went, for this trip changed my mind entirely about snorkelling. The thought of being in the sea, vulnerable to its marine life, has honestly always scared me a little. I had never quite understood the allure of the ocean divers talk about, but now I finally do. I can't wait for my next snorkelling trip.
How often do you manage to capture happiness on film? Most happy moments either go by uncaptured, or are captured as posed shots on happy occasions (think people gathering around the birthday boy/girl for a snap).
Ceci went ashore earlier as she was feeling slightly ill from the bobbing (the waters were pretty choppy), and snapped this pic of Adi and I coming up from the sea (3rd picture from left). I think we were walking pretty quickly, but despite the shot being off-centre, I can feel my happiness and exhilaration each time I look at the picture. I was on such a high!
Sat on the open deck on the ferry trip back. Met with a storm along the way, and while rain and unrelentless wind left our sea-drenched bodies freezing, the smoky mountains provided the perfect accompaniment for my marine-reminiscing.
The beauty did not lay in the setting sun, but instead the ever-changing clouds, which seemed to radiate an entrancing light from the unseeable sun.
Never thought I'd see the beauty in unicolor.
We took Adi up on his offer to take us out for seafood, but 30 minutes before we were to meet him, the post-snorkelling high wore off and logic led to me suggesting that we get the number for the police. It wasn't necessary though, for Adi, and his friend (also named Adi) turned out to be perfect gentlemen.
Would have loved to go to the Reggae Bar at Pantai Cenang the locals were raving about, but we'd a date with Tonggo and D'Cresendos at Laguna Bistro.
Laguna Bistro - the bar where our happy memories originated.
A final shot with Russell and Flora. It turned out to be D'Cresendos' last night at the bar as well, for their contract had expired, and the duo were to head down to Penang. Emails were exchanged along with handshakes and friendly pats on the back; Ceci and I may just pay Flora a visit on Boracay next year!
1 May 2007
1:25 hrs
Langkawi Lagoon Resort room
"I wish I were a beach girl.
Not the beach-going bunny I look like, but a bona fide beach girl. One who was born by the waters and spent her childhood diving and petting sharks. One whose daily life revolves around swimming in the sea and meeting the seasonal island tourists.
Langkawi is so laidback, I cannot imagine not being bored after a month. Yet, this seemingly mundane routine is life for the islanders, and life seems good to them. Meeting the same people; doing the same things.
Bali still holds the top spot on my list of places I wish to stay longer, but Langkawi definitely has its own unique charm."
1:25 hrs
Langkawi Lagoon Resort room
"I wish I were a beach girl.
Not the beach-going bunny I look like, but a bona fide beach girl. One who was born by the waters and spent her childhood diving and petting sharks. One whose daily life revolves around swimming in the sea and meeting the seasonal island tourists.
Langkawi is so laidback, I cannot imagine not being bored after a month. Yet, this seemingly mundane routine is life for the islanders, and life seems good to them. Meeting the same people; doing the same things.
Bali still holds the top spot on my list of places I wish to stay longer, but Langkawi definitely has its own unique charm."
Day 4
Three whole days flew by in a blur of activities, and the time soon came for us to bid the island I'd fallen in love with goodbye.
Langkawi is like the unlikely lover who I unknowingly gave a piece of my heart too. Like the dishevelled man at the corner you walk by everyday, barely noticing his presence, until the day you realise that he is no longer there. And that routine morning walk starts to feel a little empty, and it hits you that you had noticed and even possibly taken comfort in his presence afterall.
Langkawi, with its stuck-in-the-80s vibe; messy landscapes of cows, rusty van frames and flooded paddy fields; mystical mountains in the background, and ever-friendly island locals.
Langkawi, who took my breath away with its unfiery sunset, and who introduced me to the wonders of the marine world.
Langkawi, where I met the most amazing people, like Tonggo, Flora, Russell, Adi, and Adi.
Langkawi, where I visited 15 years ago, and I will before another 15 years go by.
